Science of Beauty
About 90%
of in-use cosmetics
are contaminated
by fungus and yeast.
Products for personal care, beauty, and cosmetics are significant vectors for the spread of pathogens in people's daily lives. The majority of such products are rich in nutrients and water, making them excellent substrates for various microorganisms to survive. According to studies, 79–90% of cosmetics are contaminated with bacteria. The degradation of the quality of cosmetics due to microbial contamination and the persistence of microorganisms has a significant negative impact on human health. Semisolid products, such as creams and rinse-off products, are the most prone to microbial contamination.
Microbial contamination can occur during consumer use (primary contamination) and manufacturing (secondary contamination).
The bacteria P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, E. coli, Bacillus species, and other bacteria, mold, and yeasts are the most frequently discovered microorganisms in cosmetics.
FCM Indicator detects the following types of molds:
Since mold spores are microscopic, the growth may occur deep within products or below the surface, where it can be too small to be visible. Sometimes, the color of the mold growth blends in with the product’s color. Moreover, using cosmetics in opaque jars increases the risk of mold growth going unnoticed.
As per the international cosmetics challenge test standard ISO 11930:2019 or the United States Pharmacopeia standard USP 51, FCM Indicator checks for the presence of Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis in beauty products.
The ISO standard includes the monitoring of the presence of various pathogens in products when it is produced, including the two fungi mentioned above.
Reasons for mold growth in beauty products:
-
Contamination
-
Improper storage and use
-
Excess moisture
-
The use of the product after the expiration date.
Preservatives may be used in cosmetics to prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mold. Parabens and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are commonly used preservatives in beauty and personal care products.
Why Organic Products Are Susceptible to Mold
Organic beauty products are not durable. Compared to synthetic products, organic products have a limited shelf life. This is because cosmetics use preservatives extracted from plants, and such substances are less stable. Organic cosmetics can be stored for a maximum of half a year. Therefore, it is extremely important to determine the possible danger of using such cosmetics.
Natural Skin Care—
How Mold Affects the Skin and Why It Is Important Not to Use Products That Contain Mold
Molds produce poisonous mycotoxins. The cream with mold applied to the skin is absorbed and enters the human body, which can cause:
-
Itchiness
-
Dry and scaly skin
-
Raw and sensitive skin
-
Brown or pink skin
-
Small, raised bumps that may leak fluid
-
Atopic dermatitis, eczema, etc.
Key Facts
All molds in beauty products increase the pH level of their growth medium when colonies form
* - A mold colony-forming unit is used in microbiology to estimate the number of viable bacteria or fungal cells in a sample. Source
New Materials
Hydrogel pad
The hydrogel pad is made of alginate with 10-mM pyrocatechol violet l or 10-mM bromocresol solution in a citric acid buffer (pH 4) mixed with the purified alginate at 0.2 g/ml. The hydrogel with the pH indicator will be GREY and change to RED as the mold grows.
Enriched medium
A Sabouraud dextrose agar and potato dextrose agar will be applied to the hydrogel pad to promote mold growth. These solutions are nutrient-poor and have an acidic pH (5.6). These solutions contain gentamicin (28 mg/L) and chloramphenicol (250 mg/L) to inhibit bacteria. Additionally, as mold requires acidic pH, the overall pH will be lowered with the use of citric acid at a concentration of 10 mg/ml.
FCM Indicator layers:
A - Mold spores.
B - Permeable layer - Allows small particles in the air through while keeping liquid inside, thus preventing further contamination of the product being monitored.
C - Mold growth medium - Attracts mold spores that enter the indicator through the permeable layer and accelerates their growth to detect them faster.
D - Hydrogel indication layer - Changes colour to red when pH increases.
E - Indicator base (sticker body).
F - Adhesive coating.
The base layer of the indicator is the foundational layer, which has a negative charge. According to the principle of the interaction of differently charged ions, the foundational layer sucks in spores when it comes into contact with a positively charged mold. This reaction neutralizes the polarity of the foundational layer, changing its characteristics.
The neutralization of the layer leads to a change in the initial parameters of the indicator, which affects the middle layer—the smart layer. It processes the changes and broadcasts them to the top layer, the permeable layer, which recolors the visual indicators from green to red. In addition, the permeable layer has a positive charge, so the cream does not interact with it, which keeps this layer clean.
The principle of operation of the indicator is based on the ionic interaction of substances. The indicator structure is made up of three fundamentally different layers that interact with each other at different levels.
The law of interaction of electric discharges states that like charges repel each other, and unlike charges, on the contrary, attract. This principle underlies the properties of the cream; namely, it perfectly adheres to human skin because the epidermis is charged with positive ions, and the cream has a negative charge, having a predominant amount of negatively charged ions in its composition. Thus, the negatively charged cream "sticks" to the human skin.
Mold, by its very nature, loves moisture. These microscopic fungi accumulate in spots as plaque on something rotting or damp. The cream is a wet product, so it is not surprising that mold can form in it if stored improperly, as mold loves this moisture so much. In addition, the mold has a positive charge. When mold infects a substance, it produces many tiny particles —spores—that are released into the air. Thus, positively charged particles dominate in moldy air.
Coulomb's Law
A warm, humid bathroom and the neutral pH value create the perfect environment for bacteria and molds to grow. A large number of microorganisms enter the product through the hands and mouth. Occasionally, contamination of the product occurs during the production process, for instance, from contaminated raw materials.
Coulomb's Law states that like charges repel each other, and unlike charges attract. This principle underlies the electromagnetic properties of creams and lotions—they perfectly adhere to human skin, because the epidermis is charged with positive ions, while creams have a negative charge.
Mold, by its very nature, has an affinity to moisture. These are microscopic fungi that accumulate in spots in the form of plaque on something that is rotting or simply damp. Creams and lotions are wet products; therefore, it is not surprising that if stored improperly, mold can form in them. In addition, the mold has a positive charge. When mold infects a substance, it produces a significant number of tiny particles—spores—that are released into the air. Thus, positively charged particles dominate in moldy air.
The base layer of the indicator is the growth medium layer, which has a negative charge. This negative charge attracts positively charged mold spores, thus drawing them in through the permeable protection layer. The latter prevents spores or liquid from passing back into the tested product; however, it lets small particles, such as spores, pass through the FCM Indicator. As the mold colonies expand, the pH of the transparent growth medium increases. The hydrogel under the growth medium changes colour to red as the pH of the latter increases, thus notifying the consumer that mold has contaminated the beauty product. Additionally, the permeable layer has a positive charge, which repels lotions and creams due to their negative charge, always leaving the FCM Indicator visible.